Saturday, July 28, 2007

Hot Pepper Tales



More photos from Korea . . . This is a stash that will never run out. Above and below are photos from a white-coral beach on Udo Island, a tiny island off the coast of Jeju Island. Apparently white coral beaches are very rare, and this is the only one in Korea. The sand itself was pretty cool because it consisted of lots of tiny twisty little bits of coral. Not soft, but nice to look at. We rented an inner tube and tried not to think about the fact that we were the only women wearing bikinis. (Speaking of bikinis, Jean will hate me for posting the photo below. Sorry! But look at my silly sunglasses.)


This is a photo of Yongduam Rock, also on Jeju. Yongduam means dragon's head, and you can almost see it in this photo. We realized that most pro photographers took their pictures from the other side of the rock, at sunrise, and it looked much more menacing. I actually didn't notice the dragon-y profile until I looked at my photos later on. Either way, the sunsets was really pretty – we were overjoyed to see the sun whenever it came out.


Here's a less sunny photo – the beach by our house on Jeju. The house itself was hidden down a windy road, but we could drive easily to this beach (though we never saw it when the sun was out). One of the most unexpected things about Jeju was the fog and haziness, and you can see that here.


One of our last trips on Jeju was to the Jusangjolli Rocks, which were somehow formed by basalt/lava/volcano/ocean activity. I have no idea. But they were really strange and interesting. There was a big wooden platform built over the sea so that tourists could look at the rocks. That's what we were doing, too, when we weren't following other foreign tourists around and trying to figure out where they came from. The little girls in the corner are Jean and Natasha.


And for the requisite food photo, this is from a chigae house in Taegu. Chigae means stew, and it's soooooooooo good. At this particular place, some of the chigaes are meant to be cooked at the table, which is fun to watch (if you've done Korean barbeque then you get the idea). The chigae is made with a huge dollop of hot pepper paste, and as the stew gets stirred up it gets redder and redder, and all the meat and vegetables simmer happily. This isn't my favorite – I like duenjang (sp?) chigae, which is made with soybean paste – but it was pretty good nonetheless.


Finally, two photos from the Teddy Bear Museum, one of the must bizarre tourist sites ever. Hundreds of teddy bears on 3 floors were set up in glass cases, recreating historical events and famous works of art. Below is Jean's favorite, a painstakingly recreated Korean wedding - you can't see it, but they're actually eating kimchi. And my favorite, The Last Supper.

Monday, July 23, 2007

The Land of Kimchi: I miss you!



Last night I arrived in Bologna after 20 hours of travel from Taegu (or Daegu), South Korea. After three weeks in Korea, I can surely say that I have become even more dedicated to Korean food than before. But that’s not all. It was a really terrific trip and I’m so grateful to my friend Jean and her family for hosting me, and to the many friends whom we met up with along the way for spurring on our adventures.

The basic idea of the trip was as follows: Natasha (another close friend from Boston), Jean and I started our journey together in Seoul, South Korea's capital. Natasha and Jean had arrived a week earlier in Taegu, and were therefore much less jet-lagged than me. We stayed with Jean's mom's cousin, who also happens to be the vice-governor of Seoul. Not bad! We explored like crazy, thanks to an amazing subway system (and cheap cabs for whenever we got lazy).

After four and a half days in Seoul, we went back to Taegu and settled into the gorgeous apartment of Jean's aunt, or Imo (her mom's eldest sister). Taegu is South Korea's 3rd biggest city - and it felt super big, though not as all-encompassing, consciousness-swallowing as Seoul. For the record, Seoul is the most overwhelmingly big city I have ever visited - it's massive! It doesn't help that there are no street signs anywhere. People just know where they are, and everyone has a navigation service in the car.

We then had five days in Taegu, which we spent hiking, visiting Buddhist temples, seeking out beaches in nearby Pusan (unfortunately it rained), and generally enjoying a slower pace. On Wednesday night, three more friends arrived - Hannah (Jean's college roommate), Hannah's friend YunJa, and Tony, a friend of Natasha's. On Thursday the six of us set off for Jejudo, which my Lonely Planet guide calls "Korea's Holiday Island". Armed with a lovely vacation house, courtesy of Hannah's uncle, and a rented SUV with a priceless navigation service, we spent the next four and a half days seeing absolutely everything we could. Jejudo is a volcanic island with lots of outdoor activities (plus a few bizarre indoor sights, like a Teddy Bear Museum). We managed to keep busy even though the sun was out only a few times.

After a quick flight back to Taegu, our friends gradually took off for other destinations. Jean and I spent the final few days finishing up our sightseeing and trying to eat as many spicy foods as possible.

This first blog entry will serve mostly as a photo deposit. When I’m less jet-lagged and more alert, I’ll write more!

One of many beautiful trees at a bonsai garden - Bunjae Artpia - in Jejudo. This was one of our favorite spots.



Kimchi pots - they're huge!



A stormy beach on Jejudo.



At a park in Seoul. Apparently the city spent millions of dollars to create this artificial stream, which is lined with flowers and plants. Lots of people stopped to dip their feet into the water - us too.



At Jeongbang Pokpo waterfall, when it was finally sunny.



At Sangumburi Crater, Jejudo's second-biggest, in haze of fog and rain. We all bought lovely ponchos!